Anyone can apply the products whether it is a local painter, handy man, contractor etc. We would be the closest to your location (other than your local painters etc).

Over 20 years.

Take a look at our price and order page.

Our lifetime warranty is regarding the products’ performance. Sani-Tred will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate or leak for the life of the structure. If you waterproof 1/2 of your basement, Only that half will be waterproof. If you waterproof just small spots, only those small spots will be waterproof. The fact is that the law of nature states “water enters through the least rout of resistance”. If you currently have leaks in specific locations, waterproofing those specific locations CAN NOT guarantee that water will not enter through untreated areas.

Some like to refer to my above statement as a ‘scare tactic’ to get you to buy more materials . the fact is that if you think about it, how on earth can we guarantee that 100% of all basements in the world will FOREVER remain 100% waterproof if only 25% of their surface area has been waterproofed? Statistically speaking, most basements leak anywhere 4′ up the wall and below, where the wall meets the floor, throughout the floor and through other cracks and joints. Just keep in mind that if you intend to finish your basement with stud walls, insulation etc. you might want to waterproof 100% of the surface area behind and under your finished walls to guarantee that you NEVER see a single molecule of water behind them. Some choose to not seal their floor . fine, that’s a personal preference, but I would suggest bringing the coating out in front of the finished walls so that you will have the OPTION in the future to waterproof the floor.

I could NOT in good conscience suggest that anyone waterproof ‘spots’ throughout their walls KNOWING that they will be putting up stud walls in front of them. We get too many calls where people who already have finished walls with leaks behind them. You could imagine their disappointment (knowing the expense of these finishing materials) when we tell them they have to coat the walls behind the stud walls. They ask “are you saying I have to tear down my finished walls”!?! You have a prime opportunity to waterproof before finishing the basement in any way.

No . not in the least. Our Basement Finishing page explains how this is accomplished without a single leak.

They do this because they have NO INTENTION of waterproofing the basement to begin with. They create these silly ‘water letter inners’ simply to encourage the basement to leak, channel the leaking water to a sump pit and pump the water back out of the basement. Pumping water out of a leaking boat is NOT ‘waterproofing the boat’. These people are in the business of ‘water mitigation’. We are in the business of water elimination and basement waterproofing by the true definition of the word. The redirection of water and the pumping of water are not waterproofing and the installers of these systems will/should agree if their intention is to NOT mislead you. Ask them if their intention is to ‘dry up the earth beneath and surrounding the foundation’. When they say no (which they should because it’s just common sense that drainage can not) then ask them what’s stopping moisture and radon from entering throughout any portion of the basement.

Ahhhh EXCELLENT question! You really opened up a can of worms here J The answer is NO, you will never have efflorescence after Sani-Tred has been used. Other products like RadonSeal, Drylok and the like DO NOT stop efflorescence from reoccurring because they ARE NOT 100% waterproof, moisture-proof, radon proof and vapor tight.

Efflorescence IS a sign that water/moisture has already entered and evaporated. Efflorescence is the minerals left behind after evaporation.

Question:

A couple of years ago I purchased Permaflex to waterproof the block walls of my basement. So far the product has worked great. I am starting to frame 2×4 walls (with insulation)around the perimeter. What do you recommend as far as a vapor barrier?

Answer:

The PermaFlex is the vapor barrier, no need for anything else.

1. Apply a heavy coat of PermaFlex either on the underside of the lumber you wish to fasten to the floor or in the location on the floor that the lumber will be fastened. NOTE: Space the sole plate away from the wall.
2. Install the “sole plate” to the floor or if the wall will be pre-built; just make sure the wall has built “slightly” short. Hang the wall from the ceiling joists and then just knock the sole plate down onto the wet PermaFlex. The PermaFlex will seal any punctures into the previous Sani-Tred application when the “stud plate” is fastened. PermaFlex is not just a life-time waterproof coating, it is also a life-time adhesive coating; therefore fewer fasteners or NO fasteners are necessary.

Question:

We have a large garage & want to waterproof/seal the concrete. Please help?

Answer:

Sani-Tred products will, for the life of the structure, prevent moisture vapor drive from permeating up through the floor and coming into the garage.
What happens is moisture within the earth will permeate up through the concrete creating a damp or wet floor. Moisture vapor drive will push paints, sealers, and other coatings right off of the concrete.

Sani-Tred products have been designed to withstand vapor drive through its unique characteristics/qualities it possesses like deep penetrating adhesion, permanent flexibility, and being 100% impervious to water/moisture.

Question:

How do I go about getting this off the walls and floor ( its flaked up in some areas ) but in the areas were it is still sealed. Is their a product or a process that you can recomend for removing it. What if all of the paint doesn’t come off … can I still use your product over it ?

Answer:

“Off The Wall Coating Remover” 

In order to remove Drylok, paints, coatings, etc. We do offer “Off The Wall Coating Remover”. Off The Wall Coating Remover is non-hazardous, non-toxic, water soluble, environmentally friendly, will not burn your skin, and is low odor.

Off The Wall Coating Remover can be brushed or rolled. Once applied to most paints, coatings, sealers, adhesives, etc. it will emulsify the product to make it easy to strip using at least a 3,500 psi pressure washer with a zero orbital tip. Once the original substrate is clean, dry, and free of any previous applied products, you can begin the Sani-Tred application.

Epoxy paints are known for their extreme chemical resistance therefore “Off The Wall Coating Remover” may not successfully break down some epoxies. A test area is always suggested regardless what is being stripped.

Off The Wall Coating Remover’s rate of use is typically estimated @ 150 sq’ per gal. The exact rate of use should be determined by your “test area” as some paints/coatings may strip using less Coating Remover than others.

“Off The Wall Coating Remover” Applied on Paint:

“Stripping Paint With Pressure Washer”

“Paint Completely Stripped”