Over 20 years.

Our lifetime warranty is regarding the products’ performance. Sani-Tred will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate or leak for the life of the structure. If you waterproof 1/2 of your basement, Only that half will be waterproof. If you waterproof just small spots, only those small spots will be waterproof. The fact is that the law of nature states “water enters through the least rout of resistance”. If you currently have leaks in specific locations, waterproofing those specific locations CAN NOT guarantee that water will not enter through untreated areas.

Some like to refer to my above statement as a ’scare tactic’ to get you to buy more materials . the fact is that if you think about it, how on earth can we guarantee that 100% of all basements in the world will FOREVER remain 100% waterproof if only 25% of their surface area has been waterproofed? Statistically speaking, most basements leak anywhere 4′ up the wall and below, where the wall meets the floor, throughout the floor and through other cracks and joints. Just keep in mind that if you intend to finish your basement with stud walls, insulation etc. you might want to waterproof 100% of the surface area behind and under your finished walls to guarantee that you NEVER see a single molecule of water behind them. Some choose to not seal their floor . fine, that’s a personal preference, but I would suggest bringing the coating out in front of the finished walls so that you will have the OPTION in the future to waterproof the floor.

I could NOT in good conscience suggest that anyone waterproof ’spots’ throughout their walls KNOWING that they will be putting up stud walls in front of them. We get too many calls where people who already have finished walls with leaks behind them. You could imagine their disappointment (knowing the expense of these finishing materials) when we tell them they have to coat the walls behind the stud walls. They ask “are you saying I have to tear down my finished walls”!?! You have a prime opportunity to waterproof before finishing the basement in any way.

No . not in the least. Our Basement Finishing page explains how this is accomplished without a single leak.

Question:

A couple of years ago I purchased Permaflex to waterproof the block walls of my basement. So far the product has worked great. I am starting to frame 2×4 walls (with insulation)around the perimeter. What do you recommend as far as a vapor barrier?

Answer:

The PermaFlex is the vapor barrier, no need for anything else.

1. Apply a heavy coat of PermaFlex either on the underside of the lumber you wish to fasten to the floor or in the location on the floor that the lumber will be fastened. NOTE: Space the sole plate away from the wall.
2. Install the “sole plate” to the floor or if the wall will be pre-built; just make sure the wall has built “slightly” short. Hang the wall from the ceiling joists and then just knock the sole plate down onto the wet PermaFlex. The PermaFlex will seal any punctures into the previous Sani-Tred application when the “stud plate” is fastened. PermaFlex is not just a life-time waterproof coating, it is also a life-time adhesive coating; therefore fewer fasteners or NO fasteners are necessary.

Question:

How do I go about getting this off the walls and floor ( its flaked up in some areas ) but in the areas were it is still sealed. Is their a product or a process that you can recomend for removing it. What if all of the paint doesn’t come off … can I still use your product over it ?

Answer:

“Off The Wall Coating Remover” 

In order to remove Drylok, paints, coatings, etc. We do offer “Off The Wall Coating Remover”. Off The Wall Coating Remover is non-hazardous, non-toxic, water soluble, environmentally friendly, will not burn your skin, and is low odor.

Off The Wall Coating Remover can be brushed or rolled. Once applied to most paints, coatings, sealers, adhesives, etc. it will emulsify the product to make it easy to strip using at least a 3,500 psi pressure washer with a zero orbital tip. Once the original substrate is clean, dry, and free of any previous applied products, you can begin the Sani-Tred application.

Epoxy paints are known for their extreme chemical resistance therefore “Off The Wall Coating Remover” may not successfully break down some epoxies. A test area is always suggested regardless what is being stripped.

Off The Wall Coating Remover’s rate of use is typically estimated @ 150 sq’ per gal. The exact rate of use should be determined by your “test area” as some paints/coatings may strip using less Coating Remover than others.

“Off The Wall Coating Remover” Applied on Paint:

“Stripping Paint With Pressure Washer”

“Paint Completely Stripped”

Question:

Existing basement has French drain in floor that is supposed to move entering water to the sump pump. Existing floor and Walls have cracks anyware from 1/16 to possibly 1/4 Inch wide and as deep as the foundation approx 3 inches. Floor vary rarly dries. Can I use your product on the walls and floor when they are wet or damp ? The house was built around 1905 w/brick & Morter and has been patched numerous times. Can the hole that the sump pump was in be filled with morter and then coated with your product ?

Answer:

Waterproofing Floors and Walls that have cracks:

To permanently waterproof/seal hairline cracks after removing any previously applied products - apply 2 coats PermaFlex.
To permanently waterproof/seal cracks wider than hairline after removing all
previously applied products - Prime w/PermaFlex, Fill/seal using the LRB/TAV, Surface coat w/PermaFlex.

Use your product on the walls and floor when they are wet or damp:

http://www.sanitred.com/torch.htm

Has been patched numerous times:

Remove any previously applied products

Can the hole that the sump pump was in be filled with morter and then coated
with your product:

The Sani-Tred system will actually render the drain system completely obsolete and useless. Once you’ve waterproofed the basement with the Sani-Tred products, there is no need to be pumping or draining water since there is no way for water, moisture, vapor or problem radon to enter the basement. Floor drains and sump pits will in no way benefit a basement and can not truly “waterproof” any basement. Drains and sumps are designed and installed to “pump water”.
The system you currently have in place is NOT a “waterproofing system” at all; it is a “water mitigation system”. Meaning it merely pumps the bulk of the water that the system catches. This system will NEVER dry up the earth under or surrounding the basement nor can it stop moisture, vapor, radon and in most cases water from entering.

If you waterproof the basement using Sani-Tred products, your current system will remain NEEDLESSLY active and pumping water for no reason. Sani-Tred products make any other so called waterproofing system obsolete.
Most of our customers with such drain systems first waterproof their basement using Sani-Tred products, plug their sump, and never look back. There are many ways to eliminate the use of a sump (all performing identically).

• Some plug their sump, fill their sump pits with concrete and seal the area using Sani-Tred products.
• Some plug their inlet pipe and cap over the sump using Sani-Tred products and plywood.

The plug is shown below and can be easily found at a large hardware
store/distributor:

The application of Sani-Tred products is easy and can be brushed or rolled (even sprayed). Once applied Sani-Tred products will cure as tough as a truck tire while embedded within the surface and on the surface of the concrete creating a 100% waterproof and seamless surface. Eliminating problem radon & mold are other desirable results of this application.
Unlike any other system/product/coating Sani-Tred products are 100% life time warranted, will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate, or leak for the life of the structure. http://www.sanitred.com/warranty.htm

Question:

I am trying to locate a contractor who uses your product and serves the Southern Maryland (Calvert County) area.This would be a basement waterproofing job.

Answer:

We ship direct to MD. The products are DIY or a local painter/handyman can be hired to apply.

Product info is on the website www.sanitred.com @ the “Product Info”, “Tech Data” & “Sani-Tred Applications” links.

The Basement Waterproofing link has 14 related links of info, pics & an Automatic Basement Quote Calculator w/a products list

The catalog of Sample Packs, products, container sizes, colors w/pricing you can find it at our Order Online page.

The application of Sani-Tred products is easy and can be brushed or rolled (even sprayed) Once applied Sani-Tred products will cure as tough as a truck tire while embedded within the surface and on the surface of the concrete creating a 100% waterproof and seamless surface. Eliminating problem radon & mold are other desirable results of this application.
Unlike any other system/product/coating Sani-Tred products are 100% Life Time Warranted, will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate, or leak for the life of the structure.

Question:

I have a standard block basement, poured concrete floor. My approach to finishing will be styrofoam insulation glued to the exterior walls, and possibly covering the floors as well. Is there any date about the ability to glue “sheet insulation” over your product, or what concerns you might have for this approach?

Answer:

After waterproofing/sealing the walls & floor, no problem “glueing” the foam insulation using the PermaFlex

Question:

Hello, I would like to test your product on my basemet which has some slow leaks throuh the rods when it rains substantially. Also have some cracks in the floor where it seaps up slightly. Is there a sample we can acquire to test on the basement before purchasing? If so, can I get a sample in tan as that would be the color we are going to use to complete the entire basement.

Answer:

You can purchase one of our Sample Packs which have a 100% money back warranty and once satisfied you can purchase more Sani-Tred Waterproofing Products. To help you with the purchase you can use our Automatic Basement Waterproofing Cost Calculator to get an estimate of how much product you need for your project.

Question:

I live in Campbell River, B.C.,Canada and I have an annoying problem with hydrostatic pressure in a house I have built. It is a ten foot high foundation wall with water weeping in through the joint between the slab and the wall/footing. I read that the only fix would be to install a sump pit and pump. Would you be able to suggest a product that you
have that would hold out the water permenantly? Please reply ASAP as it is the rainy season and this is troubling my clients.

Answer:

To permanently waterproof/seal the wall/floor joint after removing any previously applied products:

Prime 3-4″ up the wall & on the floor w/PermaFlex,

Fill/seal the joint using a 1″ sealing bead of LRB/TAV,

Surface coat over all w/PermaFlex.

Interior DRAIN SYSTEMS: Do not waterproof, they will only pump or slope water out from under or from around a home. No one who installs drain systems can or will guarantee that “not a single molecule of moisture, water, vapor, or radon will ever enter your basement”. This is a fact and if a “drain installer” says anything different, he is either lying or misinformed. Drains whether beneath the floor or around the exterior of the foundation encourages water to enter them and this water is piped to a sump pit to then be pumped back outside. This method is called “water meditation” not water proofing therefore moisture can still permeate through the concrete not to mention cracks, joints, and seams. Drain systems specifically beneath the slab can cause constant settling, more cracks, and forces cracks and joints to open further due to erosion of what is supposed
to be “undisturbed earth”. When a new home is built they would excavate for the construction of the foundation. The foundation should always be built upon “undisturbed earth” never upon earth that has been removed and then put back or much more settling can occur.
Concrete is not “waterproof”, concrete is porous, the earth surrounding every foundation will always be wet/moist and moisture does permeate through concrete. Drain systems are designed to pump water not dry up the earth surrounding a home ~ that’s impossible.

EXTERIOR DRAIN SYSTEMS: Exterior drain systems can be placed around the footer on the exterior of a foundation and run away from the home DOWN HILL. The purpose is to catch standing water and move it down hill away from the home. This is helpful to reduce “standing water” from around a foundation therefore reducing “negative hydrostatic pressure” but will not waterproof; this is still “water mitigation”. This method is not always applicable since not all homes are on a hill and may not have enough slope to do so.

EXTERIOR COATINGS: Exterior coatings will only reroute the water it deflects to the next “least rout of resistance” for it to enter. Specifically, to the wall/floor junction, any cracks in the floor, cold joints, or permeate up through the concrete to create a damp, saturated floor.

Sani-Tred SYSTEM: We Keep The Water Out! The Sani-Tred system is 100% life time warranted, permanently waterproof, vapor-proof, moisture-proof, radon-proof permanently flexible and will remain permanently adhered. Sani-Tred products are life time warranted because they withstand more “negative hydrostatic pressure” than can possibly occur anywhere in any basement for the lifetime of the home. Not a single molecule of ANYTHING can possibly enter any foundation once it has been sealed. No water - no water
damage. No moisture - no rising humidity. No rising humidity - no mold, no musty odors, mold related illnesses etc. No radon - no radon related health problems.