Archive for April, 2007

Are there any other distributers in the ohio area, or anyone i can call to do the application for me?

Monday, April 16th, 2007

Anyone can apply the products whether it is a local painter, handy man, contractor etc. We would be the closest to your location (other than your local painters etc).

How lond has sani-tred been basement waterproofing products been around?

Monday, April 16th, 2007

Over 20 years.

Do you offer a refund for return of unused and opened product?

Monday, April 16th, 2007

Take a look at our price and order page.

Does the warranty/guarentee stand for problem area application, or do i have to coat the entire basement walls and floors? or is it just the areas sanit-tred is applied to?

Friday, April 13th, 2007

Our lifetime warranty is regarding the products’ performance. Sani-Tred will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate or leak for the life of the structure. If you waterproof 1/2 of your basement, Only that half will be waterproof. If you waterproof just small spots, only those small spots will be waterproof. The fact is that the law of nature states “water enters through the least rout of resistance”. If you currently have leaks in specific locations, waterproofing those specific locations CAN NOT guarantee that water will not enter through untreated areas.

Some like to refer to my above statement as a ’scare tactic’ to get you to buy more materials . the fact is that if you think about it, how on earth can we guarantee that 100% of all basements in the world will FOREVER remain 100% waterproof if only 25% of their surface area has been waterproofed? Statistically speaking, most basements leak anywhere 4′ up the wall and below, where the wall meets the floor, throughout the floor and through other cracks and joints. Just keep in mind that if you intend to finish your basement with stud walls, insulation etc. you might want to waterproof 100% of the surface area behind and under your finished walls to guarantee that you NEVER see a single molecule of water behind them. Some choose to not seal their floor . fine, that’s a personal preference, but I would suggest bringing the coating out in front of the finished walls so that you will have the OPTION in the future to waterproof the floor.

I could NOT in good conscience suggest that anyone waterproof ’spots’ throughout their walls KNOWING that they will be putting up stud walls in front of them. We get too many calls where people who already have finished walls with leaks behind them. You could imagine their disappointment (knowing the expense of these finishing materials) when we tell them they have to coat the walls behind the stud walls. They ask “are you saying I have to tear down my finished walls”!?! You have a prime opportunity to waterproof before finishing the basement in any way.

what about finishing the basement after application, and penetrating the sani-tred with nails or screws in the walls or floors will/could this cause a problem? and does it effect the guarantee?

Friday, April 13th, 2007

No . not in the least. Our Basement Finishing page explains how this is accomplished without a single leak.

How come other companies find it necessary to relieve the hydrostatic pressure the blocks hold by drilling holes or weeps to relive the pressure. if the blocks supposidly act like a sponge wont the water eventualy find a way in?

Thursday, April 12th, 2007

They do this because they have NO INTENTION of waterproofing the basement to begin with. They create these silly ‘water letter inners’ simply to encourage the basement to leak, channel the leaking water to a sump pit and pump the water back out of the basement. Pumping water out of a leaking boat is NOT ‘waterproofing the boat’. These people are in the business of ‘water mitigation’. We are in the business of water elimination and basement waterproofing by the true definition of the word. The redirection of water and the pumping of water are not waterproofing and the installers of these systems will/should agree if their intention is to NOT mislead you. Ask them if their intention is to ‘dry up the earth beneath and surrounding the foundation’. When they say no (which they should because it’s just common sense that drainage can not) then ask them what’s stopping moisture and radon from entering throughout any portion of the basement.

Will i have signs of efloresence or calcium deposites on my walls after application has been applied for a while?

Thursday, April 12th, 2007

Ahhhh EXCELLENT question! You really opened up a can of worms here J The answer is NO, you will never have efflorescence after Sani-Tred has been used. Other products like RadonSeal, Drylok and the like DO NOT stop efflorescence from reoccurring because they ARE NOT 100% waterproof, moisture-proof, radon proof and vapor tight.

Efflorescence IS a sign that water/moisture has already entered and evaporated. Efflorescence is the minerals left behind after evaporation.