Question:

I wish to apply a sealant to an old vynyl floor. The floor has cracks and small holes. It must withstand temperatures in excess of 135F and a great deal of moisture. I want to be able to slide bins weighing approx. 75lbs. across the surface when cured. Can you recommend a product from your line? I\’ll need enough to cover approx. 325sq.ft. plus I am
hoping that I can go over the problem areas with a first coat to help level out the finish.

Answer:

Nothing will permanently bond to vinyl (plastic). You will need to remove the vinyl then apply to the wood or concrete.
2 coats PermaFlex applied @ 240 sq ft gal per coat, using the LRB/TAV in between the coats of PermaFlex to fill/seal cracks, joints & leveling.

Question:

Existing basement has French drain in floor that is supposed to move entering water to the sump pump. Existing floor and Walls have cracks anyware from 1/16 to possibly 1/4 Inch wide and as deep as the foundation approx 3 inches. Floor vary rarly dries. Can I use your product on the walls and floor when they are wet or damp ? The house was built around 1905 w/brick & Morter and has been patched numerous times. Can the hole that the sump pump was in be filled with morter and then coated with your product ?

Answer:

Waterproofing Floors and Walls that have cracks:

To permanently waterproof/seal hairline cracks after removing any previously applied products – apply 2 coats PermaFlex.
To permanently waterproof/seal cracks wider than hairline after removing all
previously applied products – Prime w/PermaFlex, Fill/seal using the LRB/TAV, Surface coat w/PermaFlex.

Use your product on the walls and floor when they are wet or damp:

http://www.sanitred.com/torch.htm

Has been patched numerous times:

Remove any previously applied products

Can the hole that the sump pump was in be filled with morter and then coated
with your product:

The Sani-Tred system will actually render the drain system completely obsolete and useless. Once you’ve waterproofed the basement with the Sani-Tred products, there is no need to be pumping or draining water since there is no way for water, moisture, vapor or problem radon to enter the basement. Floor drains and sump pits will in no way benefit a basement and can not truly “waterproof” any basement. Drains and sumps are designed and installed to “pump water”.
The system you currently have in place is NOT a “waterproofing system” at all; it is a “water mitigation system”. Meaning it merely pumps the bulk of the water that the system catches. This system will NEVER dry up the earth under or surrounding the basement nor can it stop moisture, vapor, radon and in most cases water from entering.

If you waterproof the basement using Sani-Tred products, your current system will remain NEEDLESSLY active and pumping water for no reason. Sani-Tred products make any other so called waterproofing system obsolete.
Most of our customers with such drain systems first waterproof their basement using Sani-Tred products, plug their sump, and never look back. There are many ways to eliminate the use of a sump (all performing identically).

• Some plug their sump, fill their sump pits with concrete and seal the area using Sani-Tred products.
• Some plug their inlet pipe and cap over the sump using Sani-Tred products and plywood.

The plug is shown below and can be easily found at a large hardware
store/distributor:

The application of Sani-Tred products is easy and can be brushed or rolled (even sprayed). Once applied Sani-Tred products will cure as tough as a truck tire while embedded within the surface and on the surface of the concrete creating a 100% waterproof and seamless surface. Eliminating problem radon & mold are other desirable results of this application.
Unlike any other system/product/coating Sani-Tred products are 100% life time warranted, will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate, or leak for the life of the structure. http://www.sanitred.com/warranty.htm

Question:

My friend (who doesn\’t have the internet) is interested in your product for application on a flat roof. Do you have dealers in Manitoba. He is located about 120 miles north west of Winnipeg.

Answer:

We ship direct to Canada.

Question:

Do you provide any Hands on training or is it possible to talk to some of your installers?

Answer:

No need for “training”; homeowners apply the products, easy to use/apply.

Question:

I am trying to locate a contractor who uses your product and serves the Southern Maryland (Calvert County) area.This would be a basement waterproofing job.

Answer:

We ship direct to MD. The products are DIY or a local painter/handyman can be hired to apply.

Product info is on the website www.sanitred.com @ the “Product Info”, “Tech Data” & “Sani-Tred Applications” links.

The Basement Waterproofing link has 14 related links of info, pics & an Automatic Basement Quote Calculator w/a products list

The catalog of Sample Packs, products, container sizes, colors w/pricing you can find it at our Order Online page.

The application of Sani-Tred products is easy and can be brushed or rolled (even sprayed) Once applied Sani-Tred products will cure as tough as a truck tire while embedded within the surface and on the surface of the concrete creating a 100% waterproof and seamless surface. Eliminating problem radon & mold are other desirable results of this application.
Unlike any other system/product/coating Sani-Tred products are 100% Life Time Warranted, will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate, or leak for the life of the structure.

Question:

I am looking for advice on products to use on a community pool clubhouse. Specifically the floors and walls in the locker and shower areas. These floors and walls have been painted numerous times and the always chip and peal and eventually look bad. What do you suggest?

Answer:

Roughly $2.48 – $2.50 per sq ft.

We suggest you go to our Heavy Dutty Floor section of our website. There you will find our heavy duty, slip resistant, textured roof/floor system, a step by step photo page, and a very handy “rate of use chart” to calculate how much of each product needed.

As a rule of thumb we suggest our textured system for outdoor use and our smooth system for indoor use. Anything textured will not mop and is harder to sweep; anything smooth will mop, sweep, and cleanup is simple.

Question:

For waterproofing a 1″thick plywood aquarium 8′long x 3′wide x 2′deep with the front viewing pannel being plexi, What do I need to make a Black waterproof liner? I figured 76 square feet of inside surface.

Answer:

1. The first thing you would do is prepare the substrate. Make sure the substrate is clean, dry, free of any previous applied product, and foreign matter.
2. Prime the Plywood with 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal). Prime the acrylic with 1 coat of 2-part epoxy primer. The prime coat of PermaFlex will penetrate into the plywood then cure tough as a truck tire inside the plywood to achieve permanent adhesion. The 2-part epoxy primer is used to better adhere to the acrylic.
3. Patch and profile any plywood joints, seams, cracks, holes, etc… using LRB/TAV mixture at a ¾” bead. This mixture is 2 parts LRB to 1 part TAV. LRB/TAV mixture will molecularly weld to the prime coat of PermaFlex and permanently adhere to the epoxy primer.




4. Apply a coat of LRB (Liquid Rubber Base) to the interior of the tank to create a thick impervious membrane (80 sq ft per gal) 20 mils thickness. LRB will cure at any thickness. The LRB membrane will overwhelm any imperfections within the plywood, guarantee an absolute seal, allow ultimate flexibility, and durability. This membrane will molecularly weld to the previous applications. LRB can also be thickened to any viscosity by mixing it with TAV. This will give you thicker vertical cling if the tank can not be flipped onto its side.
5. Topcoat using 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal) which will molecularly weld to the LRB membrane.

If VHO lighting or any other intense UV lighting will be used or would like a special color, apply 1 coat of a good 2 part epoxy paint. This paint will give you the color desired and extreme UV resistance. This coat will not aid or inhibit the waterproofing/sealing of the aquarium. Wash the Sani-Tred surfaces before filling the tank with water.

01)

02)

03)

04)

05)

Result

Question:

Can you tint Permaflex and Permaflex-Al another color? And
if yes, what kind of tint should you use?

Answer:

When a color like that is wanted, we suggest waterproofing w/Sani-Tred then painting w/paint or epoxy w/a color of your choice.

Question:

I have a standard block basement, poured concrete floor. My approach to finishing will be styrofoam insulation glued to the exterior walls, and possibly covering the floors as well. Is there any date about the ability to glue “sheet insulation” over your product, or what concerns you might have for this approach?

Answer:

After waterproofing/sealing the walls & floor, no problem “glueing” the foam insulation using the PermaFlex

Question:

I’m from Langkawi, Malaysia. We operate and maintain a five star luxury international resort. We have 5 nos of water pond with tiles finish floor. We notice pond water leak 2 to 4 inch a day. Do you have a product to seal our ponds keeping the tiles finish intact (probably a clear or transperent color of water proofing material) Do you have distributor in Malaysia? thank you

Answer:

We ship direct to Malaysia. The only way to permanently waterproof/seal the ponds but keep the look of the tile is to remove the tile, waterproof then re-set the tile.

The other option is to waterproof over the tile.