Question:

Who sells/distributes your products in Seattle?

Answer:

We ship direct to WA. The products are DIY or a local painter/handyman can be hired to apply.

Question:

Hello, I would like to test your product on my basemet which has some slow leaks throuh the rods when it rains substantially. Also have some cracks in the floor where it seaps up slightly. Is there a sample we can acquire to test on the basement before purchasing? If so, can I get a sample in tan as that would be the color we are going to use to complete the entire basement.

Answer:

You can purchase one of our Sample Packs which have a 100% money back warranty and once satisfied you can purchase more Sani-Tred Waterproofing Products. To help you with the purchase you can use our Automatic Basement Waterproofing Cost Calculator to get an estimate of how much product you need for your project.

Question:

I was wondering if your product would work to waterproof a shower base that I am constructing. I am making the base using premix concrete and vinyl concrete. Then I will be using natural slate tile to cover the entire shower. I have been looking at some rubberized shower bases, but they do not have the size I am looking for. I hope you have a product that might work.

Answer:

Sani-Tred products are used for setting tile for a permanently flexible, bonded, waterproof base. You would want to make sure that the back of your tiles do not have a shiny, glossy glaze on them. If they do, you would need to use our “Tile Etch” on the back first.

Setting Tile:

The first thing you would do is waterproof the area you want to adhere the
tile to. The basic steps are listed below:

1. Preparing the substrate. Meaning remove any loose crumbly substrate, make sure the substrate is clean, dry, free of any previous applied products, and foreign matter. Poured concrete floors are typically acid etched according to our instructions. You would want to make sure that the back of your tiles do not have a shiny, glossy glaze on them. If they do, you would need to use our “Tile Etch” on the back first.
2. Prime the substrate with 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal).
3. Patch and profile any joints, seams, cracks, holes, etc… using LRB/TAV mixture (Liquid Rubber Base, Thickening Activator). LRB can be used by itself (as a liquid membrane) to smooth out any horizontal surface (at any thickness) or can be used like a coating over horizontal, vertical, and inverted surfaces.
4. Topcoat using 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal). All block surfaces will require a 3rd coat of PermaFlex.
5. Now that the area has been waterproofed, you would want to prime the backs of your tiles using 1 coat of PermaFlex (approx 240 sq ft per gal) and allow to cure or at least until it has become quite tacky. If the tiles are glass or granite we suggest using our 2-part primer on the back of the tiles.
6. Mix up a small batch of LRB/TAV mixture (thickened mixture). Most people would use a 1/4″ Notched Trowel or a 1/4″ notched tool to evenly distribute the LRB/TAV mixture (approx 40 sq ft gal). This mixture would be used to set your primed tiles. You can butt your tiles “side to side” or space them to accept standard grout. Grout may be used as soon as 3-4 hrs after setting the tiles.

Question:

I’m primarily interested in your product for its radon elimination application. My house is a 2 story colonial style built over a basement. The house also has a first floor den/family room that is built on a concrete slab and is not over the basement. My radon reading in the den is about 0.6 and I would like to try to lower that reading if possible. The den is approx. 10′x18′. There is also a crack (3ft long, not very wide) in the slab that I would like to fill as well prior to coating the entire slab. What products would I use for this purpose? I don’t think that the concrete slab has any coating on it now (besides the carpet. Is there any “prep” work that I would need to do to the slab surface before applying your product? Thanks.

Answer:

The purpose of using Sani-Tred products is to not allow water or problem radon to enter for the life of the structure. Most other systems encourage radon to enter in attempt to vent it out. The rest merely slow the entry of radon. WE KEEP THE RADON OUT.

Basement Problem Radon Elimination:
Sani-Tred products are the only products in the world that are 100% life time warranted, 100% waterproof, permanently flexible, will permanently withstand more negative hydrostatic pressure than can possibly occur within any basement, and eliminate problem radon. Any products lacking even 1 of these qualities can not permanently waterproof/radon-proof anything.

Question:

I live in Campbell River, B.C.,Canada and I have an annoying problem with hydrostatic pressure in a house I have built. It is a ten foot high foundation wall with water weeping in through the joint between the slab and the wall/footing. I read that the only fix would be to install a sump pit and pump. Would you be able to suggest a product that you
have that would hold out the water permenantly? Please reply ASAP as it is the rainy season and this is troubling my clients.

Answer:

To permanently waterproof/seal the wall/floor joint after removing any previously applied products:

Prime 3-4″ up the wall & on the floor w/PermaFlex,

Fill/seal the joint using a 1″ sealing bead of LRB/TAV,

Surface coat over all w/PermaFlex.

Interior DRAIN SYSTEMS: Do not waterproof, they will only pump or slope water out from under or from around a home. No one who installs drain systems can or will guarantee that “not a single molecule of moisture, water, vapor, or radon will ever enter your basement”. This is a fact and if a “drain installer” says anything different, he is either lying or misinformed. Drains whether beneath the floor or around the exterior of the foundation encourages water to enter them and this water is piped to a sump pit to then be pumped back outside. This method is called “water meditation” not water proofing therefore moisture can still permeate through the concrete not to mention cracks, joints, and seams. Drain systems specifically beneath the slab can cause constant settling, more cracks, and forces cracks and joints to open further due to erosion of what is supposed
to be “undisturbed earth”. When a new home is built they would excavate for the construction of the foundation. The foundation should always be built upon “undisturbed earth” never upon earth that has been removed and then put back or much more settling can occur.
Concrete is not “waterproof”, concrete is porous, the earth surrounding every foundation will always be wet/moist and moisture does permeate through concrete. Drain systems are designed to pump water not dry up the earth surrounding a home ~ that’s impossible.

EXTERIOR DRAIN SYSTEMS: Exterior drain systems can be placed around the footer on the exterior of a foundation and run away from the home DOWN HILL. The purpose is to catch standing water and move it down hill away from the home. This is helpful to reduce “standing water” from around a foundation therefore reducing “negative hydrostatic pressure” but will not waterproof; this is still “water mitigation”. This method is not always applicable since not all homes are on a hill and may not have enough slope to do so.

EXTERIOR COATINGS: Exterior coatings will only reroute the water it deflects to the next “least rout of resistance” for it to enter. Specifically, to the wall/floor junction, any cracks in the floor, cold joints, or permeate up through the concrete to create a damp, saturated floor.

Sani-Tred SYSTEM: We Keep The Water Out! The Sani-Tred system is 100% life time warranted, permanently waterproof, vapor-proof, moisture-proof, radon-proof permanently flexible and will remain permanently adhered. Sani-Tred products are life time warranted because they withstand more “negative hydrostatic pressure” than can possibly occur anywhere in any basement for the lifetime of the home. Not a single molecule of ANYTHING can possibly enter any foundation once it has been sealed. No water - no water
damage. No moisture - no rising humidity. No rising humidity - no mold, no musty odors, mold related illnesses etc. No radon - no radon related health problems.

Question:

I would like some info on rubberized garage coatings?

Answer:

Garage Floor Application:

Sani-Tred products will, for the life of the structure, prevent moisture vapor drive from permeating up through the floor and coming into the garage.

What happens is moisture within the earth will permeate up through the concrete creating a damp or wet floor. Moisture vapor drive will push paints, sealers, and other coatings right off of the concrete.

Sani-Tred products have been designed to withstand vapor drive through its unique characteristics or qualities it possesses like deep penetrating adhesion, permanent flexibility, and being 100% impervious to water/moisture.

Roughly $0.70 per sq ft. (2 coats PermaFlex). Smooth floor systems are
suggested indoor or where moping and sweeping is the typical method of cleaning.

Question:

I have a cement roof with parapat walls. The roof was poured after the walls were in place and I have leaks at several of the join areas. Do you have a product that will seal these areas, if so do yu have a distributer in Belize?

Answer:

Yes we do and we ship directly to Belize.

Concrete Flat roof Application(SMOOTH):

1. The first thing you would do is prepare the substrate. Meaning remove any loose crumbly substrate, make sure the substrate is clean, dry, and free of any previous applied products. When removal is not applicable, laying a new substrate such as plywood, cement board, etc. would be the solution.
2. Prime the substrate with 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal).
3. Patch and profile any joints, seams, cracks, holes, etc… using LRB/TAV mixture at a 3/4″ bead as shown in the diagram below. LRB/TAV mixture can be applied at any thickness to fill any joint, seam, crack, hole, etc. Wall/floor junctions require a 1″ bead of LRB/TAV mixture.
   LRB/TAV “Round Bead Consumption Chart”
   http://www.sanitred.com/roundchart.htm

Concrete Cracks and Joints:

4. For the Sani-Tred “Life Time Roof” applications apply a 40 mil thick LRB (Liquid Rubber Base) membrane (40 sq ft per gal).

OPTIONAL: less LRB can be used or no membrane at all; “Life Time Roof” applications require a 40 mil thick membrane.

5. Topcoat the surface with 1 coat of PermaFlex or PermaFlex-AL (240 sq ft per gal). PermaFlex-AL is our extreme UV resistant outdoor topcoat.

Flat, Concrete Roof/Deck System - TEXTURED:

You would want to go on our website www.sanitred.com and go under Sani-Tred Applications and click on “Heavy Duty Floor“. There you will find our heavy duty, slip resistant, textured roof/floor system, a step by step photo page, and a very handy “rate of use chart” to calculate how much of each product needed.

Question:

I am very interested in your products for constructing a waterproof, indoor room for aging cheese. Humidity is 85-90% and temps are 50-55 degreesF, all year long. I need an easy to clean, sanitary product for the walls, ceiling and floor. It is critical that it be waterproof to prevent moisture migration to the rest of the building. It is also important that it applicable to standard interior substrates, such as plywood, GWB or concrete board.

Answer:

Yes, you can use Sani-Tred waterproofing products to waterproof your indoor room for aging cheese. It’s very easy:

2 coats of PermaFlex applied @ 240 sq ft gal per coat will
waterproof/seal/coat the floor, walls & ceiling.

To permanently waterproof & seal the wall/floor joints & all wall & ceiling joints apply LRB/TAV in between the coats of PermaFlex.

Question:

I’ve got a fountain (this one in fact http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?
action=productDetail&productId=155068-19811-F30276DA&lpage=none) that was left out too long this season and ended up freezing. The bottom inside of the fountain cracked and is now letting water flow down and out of the base. Can Sani-Tred be used to seal this? Could I use it on the underside of the fountain so it\’s not visible? Thank you!

Answer:

Yes,

Cracks-

To permanently waterproof/seal hairline cracks after removing any previously applied products - apply 2 coats PermaFlex.

To permanently waterproof/seal cracks wider than hairline after removing all previously applied products-

Prime w/PermaFlex,

Fill/seal using the LRB/TAV,

Surface coat w/PermaFlex.

Question:

Is the SaniTred LRB the product that I would use in between my driveway slabs? I am talking about the area where the wood slats they put in when they pour the driveway have rotted and I need to put filler in there. Thanks.

Answer:

Yes:

Wall/Floor Joints, Expansion Joints, Cracks and Holes:

1. The first thing you would do is prepare the joints, cracks and holes. Meaning remove any loose deteriorated substrate, make sure the substrate is clean, dry, free of any previous applied products, and foreign matter.
2. Prime the joints, cracks and holes with 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal).
3. Patch and profile any joints, cracks, holes, etc… using LRB/TAV mixture (Liquid Rubber Base, Thickening Activator). LRB can be used by itself (as a liquid membrane) to smooth out any horizontal surface (at any thickness) or can be used like a coating over horizontal, vertical, and inverted surfaces. Wall/floor junctions require a 1″ bead of LRB/TAV mixture.
   LRB/TAV Rate Of Use Charts: http://www.sanitred.com/rateofuse.htm
4. Topcoat joints, cracks and holes using 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal). LRB/TAV “Round Bead Consumption Chart”: http://www.sanitred.com/roundchart.htmOnline Order Here: http://www.sanitred.com/productprice$.htmProduct Price List: http://www.sanitred.com/pricelist.htm

All Sani-Tred products are life time warranted, permanently
flexible, will never leak, bubble, chip, peel, crack, or delaminate. All
product literature, product prices, life time warranty, tech data, MSDS,
etc. is located with our website www.sanitred.com